The Ardèche Mountains are indeed beautiful, as proclaimed the popular singer-songwriter Jean Ferrat in the song about his beloved mountain looming large in the blue skies over his adopted home Antraigues. But this is the most extreme section of Sur les Routes de l'Ardéchoise and the lovely welcoming villages lining the roads are a mere sub-clause, offering brief respite in what is a massive challenge. On the border with Lozère, you have the impression of being at the end of the world faced with impenetrable forests of chestnut and pine trees. Emerging to stunning views and hidden villages, it'll do you good to stop for a minute and taste a few blueberries.